I Came for Angkor Wat
I Stayed for the People

Then, totally unplanned, I came RIGHT BACK a couple of weeks later—mainly to see if I had dreamed it.

Words & Photography by Mark Cross

Arrival – It is hot!

And that is saying something coming directly from Thailand. But when your driver immediately hands you an ice-cold water bottle with one hand, while using tongs in the other to hold a small hand towel covered in ice crystals, you know you picked the right hotel. He told me the rolled towel was known as a “Cambodian egg roll.”

The check-in process began when the car was met at the curb by two smiling staff members (the driver had called in advance to inform them of our estimated arrival). I didn’t need help carrying my single backpack (all 15 lbs. of it—did I mention I “journey light”?), but it was nice they grabbed it anyway, as I was escorted to a sprawling couch in the outdoor lobby beneath two ceiling fans.

Another smiling staff member came up and asked for my passport to check me in while I rested. Then a wonderful gentleman whose name I would later learn was “Roth,” brought a cold tea /juice blend, snacks, and yet another cold towel. I had been here for 10 minutes and was already wondering if my memories of the Ritz-Carlton service were still the best I had ever experienced—and the Ritz did NOT cost $68/night!

Upstairs in my room, I’m speechless as I’m picking the many lotus petals off the bed. Exploring further, I find an assortment of fresh tea leaves, a variety of fruit, water bottles in three places around the room and bath.

Now refreshed, I headed down to the restaurant overlooking the beautiful pool. While unfolding yet another cold towel beneath an even larger fan, I noticed one of the front desk staff standing to the side in the restaurant, apparently in case I needed anything. I started wondering if dual citizenship was an option here.

This probably sounds like a hotel review, but in reality this experience became an introduction to the hearts of the Cambodian people.

CAMBODIA AT A GLANCE

LOCATION
Siem Reap & Phnom Penh

ELEVATION
36—59 feet

BEST TIME
Hot—so why not now?

TIME NEEDED
3 days to a lifetime

FRIENDLINESS
Off the charts

Realizing these are real lotus petals
all over the bed

View from my balcony beckoning
me to the restaurant

As I ventured out to explore the streets of Siem Reap, virtually everyone I met extended this same warmth. I had never been thanked for coming to someone’s country before, and it happened here on four separate occasions.

Street hustlers who don’t try to hustle you were yet another pleasant surprise. A simple wave or “no thank you,” and they smiled—not another word. Same in cafes and souvenir shops. This just isn’t like anywhere I’ve ever been.

“Yet another café,
but an extraordinary muffin and cappuccino
for $1.35?
#StarbucksDeadToMe“

My walks took me in random directions to give me as varied an experience as possible. The local traffic, even at its busiest, was far less intense than in many other countries. As I started to cross the street, a uniformed traffic guard walked out with me with his stick and ensured my safety. I even got a smile. I’ve never seen that before! I had been here a short time and was already grateful for not having booked any onward reservations in the next few days. I will not be in any hurry to leave here…

During my entire stay I was fortunate to not have encountered any misquoted mosquitoes (shh, writer’s joke). As I came down from my room, a man at the front desk struck up a conversation. I then mentioned that I was going to eat by the pool and began walking there. He quickly came from behind the desk and chased after me with a can and asked if he could spray me. Wow, that’s what I call 9+ star service. And again, thoughtfulness and genuine consideration.

The following morning, I finally met the hotel manager as I was finishing my breakfast, and we sat over a latte discussing my experiences so far and things I was thinking about doing while here. Angkor Wat is the overwhelming reason most people come to Siem Reap and I am certainly not the exception. There are a number of ways to tour ranging from open-air bike taxis, commonly referred to as tuk-tuks, to an air-conditioned car with a driver and perhaps a guide as well (and cold towels & water). It gets really hot, so it’s a matter of balancing comfort and tolerance with your pocketbook.

Asked the hotel manager for
a car to take me to the embassy to
apply for dual citizenship.
She said, “No charge!“

I told the manager that I was absolutely loving Cambodia as well as the hotel and wanted to extend my stay another night because I did not want to leave. I was offered a discount plus an aromatherapy massage. I would have stayed even if the room price increased.

The Temples of Angkor:
Exploring the Heart of the Khmer Empire

“You’re joking, right? Meet you in the lobby at 4:30 a.m.?”
“I have to be there before the sun rises? Are you sure it’s worth it?”
“Swell!”

Two hours of sleep later—
4:40 a.m. “Can I bring the breakfast in the car?”

A short drive and walk later, I’m sitting on the rocks in the (relative) cool of the morning, listening to the sounds of nature. I feel a oneness with the mysterious creatures around me as we patiently anticipate the sunrise.

And then, at last. Today’s version of… today!

Not since… yesterday was there anything so beautiful here. A production that has lasted 900 years longer than any show on Broadway. The same star in the leading role, the same lighting crew (though they change a bit seasonally), and the same stone-faced supporting cast. And what a performance they achieve!

And then the journey within a journey begins. Angkor Wat has too many ancient scenes to describe, or even behold. Most visitors spend a few hours here. Some come back for another day, or even two. One can easily see how even the guides returning daily can barely see this massive place, let alone its intricate detail.

Innumerable photographs awaiting each thirsty camera everywhere you turn. The proverbial 1,000-word photo is worth 10 times that here. And this is just one temple area.

Anticipating the sunrise over Angkor Wat…

Exploring

Too Many Photos to Take
Be glad you’re not paying for film

Beyond the temple shrine of Angkor Wat lies the great city of Angkor Thom, a huge area of more than 2,200 acres with an overwhelming array of monuments to behold, such as Bayon with its enormous stone faces. Choosing a favorite among all of these is rather like picking your favorite child, or perhaps your favorite Star Wars movie (I’m not telling), as each successive temple vied for the lead.

Then, if that was not enough, outside this area lies Ta Prohm, often referred to as the “Tomb Raider” or “Angelina Jolie” temple. The carved stones are incredible … but the trees … Now we’re well beyond 100,000-word pictures at this point.

Entwined Embrace

Slowly growing
closer with each decade…

Distinction of differences
Left to the imagination

A stone tree
A wooden temple
blurred boundaries

A marriage
no matter the years we face
nothing will replace

The unending embrace…

The trees are one with the ancient carved stones

The way nature has engulfed the ancient temple structures is almost otherworldly

Killing Fields

As reluctant as I was to leave Siem Reap, I had a connection to make through the capital city of Phnom Penh, plus I wanted to visit several of the sites associated with the Cambodian genocide.

My somewhat burly tuk-tuk driver was polite enough, though he looked like somebody you wouldn’t mess with. I had asked to do the normal two-stop tour in reverse, so we went first to the school and then to one of the actual fields. I had read some of the history but was still unprepared. I was even less able to reconcile the consistent kindness I received here with country-wide tragedy recent enough that many survivors remain.

I took my time walking through the various classrooms, examining the exhibits, and noting the makeshift gallows and other scenes in the open center courtyard. We were literally in the middle of the city. It was difficult to comprehend how something like this could happen here, hidden in plain sight. Later, seeing the open fields, where pieces of clothing and bone fragments continue to surface decades later, left me… not even sure what word to use!

I created many images here, but I’ve chosen to only present a few, without captions or explanations. Some things are more apparent than others, though I have been really conflicted as to how much to share. While I will probably return here on a future journey, in many ways I have not left this behind. Even compiling this section of the article together was really emotional for me. I cannot begin to fathom the toll on families that have lived through this.

As I finally exited the former high school, my face must have betrayed feelings I could no longer contain. I walked toward the driver as he leaned on a building just beside our “limo.” When he saw me, he moved forward to get back in the vehicle but then paused and looked at me. I wasn’t expecting what happened next. He hugged me! He patted my shoulder, then looked at me again. I touched my heart and he touched his as well. As we wound our way back through traffic, I just stared as the blurry street presented ever-changing faces and vehicles of all sizes, shapes, and precarious payloads.

These people had already crawled into my heart, but with a deeper perspective on their resilience, I knew they were there to stay.

You visit a place and you eventually leave.

Some may leave you thinking, maybe I’ll come back someday.

Others, I really hope I make it back.

Very rarely have I declared, “I’m coming back!”

But on the very first day I arrived?
Never happened before…

HOW MANY TIMES
is the only question…